Monday, January 3, 2022

Mastering the Art of Not Cooking

 


In the introduction to her first cookbook, Ina Garten explains that when she bought the Barefoot Contessa in the 70s, American cooks (including Ina!) were "studying Julia Child's The Art of French Cooking like it was the Bible and we had just found religion." But each recipe contained at least three mini-recipes - dinner for six (Ina's standard) could take six days to prepare. Ina focused on simple and inexpensive because that's what she needed in her life as a new business owner, and it turns out many others did too.

And she had some great teachers. Devon Fredericks and then Anna Pump from Loaves and Fishes. Eli Zabar from E.A.T. Martha Stewart herself. Ina emphasizes, though, that a cookbook is just a starting place for any recipe. The magic happens when you take the recipes, write notes in the margins, experiment and substitute away, and make it your own.

Food is nurturing, both physical and emotional. Make some great dishes for your friends, but let them treat you too! Ina focuses on food as a vehicle not for impressing people but for making them feel comfortable. And you can feel that comfort-able thread throughout her recipes.

Ina points out that the most useful thing she learned while cooking professionally is that there are many things you can do in advance to make cooking less stressful. Also, don't do it all yourself. Find the specialty food stores in your area and experiment away! Mix homemade items with store-bought items. (It's not one way or the other!) And when you find a recipe or combination that works, use it over and over again.

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